Abundance in The Yuzu Cottage
Nothing goes to waste, even the Yuzu’s pith matter! Yuriko told us as she put down a busy tray of various pots and cutlery.
It was peak snow season, one of the highest amounts of snowfall in Ishikawa for a decade or so. We sought solace inside her warm wooden cottage, drowning in its earthy scent. Soon, we will be hiking up the mountain.
The snow should stop in an hour or so, her husband, Takeshi, said as he folded his snow jacket on a rocking chair by the corner. His stereotypical red and white lumberjack shirt revealed a broad and strong frame. Those muscles have no doubt been sculpted by true labor.
Half an hour ago, Takeshi proudly showed us his humble cottage hidden well within the mountain regions of Hakusan. A side project that started as a summer cafe eventually turned into a full-time lifestyle that the couple adopted after a tiring life of corporate meetings and capitalism. I renovated the entire place by myself! His wide smile bore more than pride and boast. Even as a non-architect, I could notice just how detailed Takeshi’s wooden furniture was. The house practically felt like hugging a tree.
Yuriko methodically sets up the necessary tools in front of us. Our translator and guide, a ranger working with the UNESCO park, sat in the corner sipping on warm locally foraged mushroom tea. She was close friends with the couple.
A chef’s knife, a Ramekin, and a bowl, we were to make Yuzu Jam. For reference, Yuzu is a citrus fruit (Citrus Junos) that’s harvested between November and December. It’s far bitter than any orange, tangerine, lemon, or lime I’ve ever tasted. It’s also remarkably lacking juice. Japan loves using Yuzu for sauces, bathing, tea, and most importantly, Jam among other things.
I did not like the Yuzu Jam. This is not a small story about the surgical-like precision of Japanese craftsmanship and how that would lead to an amazing Yuzu Jam that’s incredibly tart with complex flavors.
Instead, among the large pile of Yuzu, through the bright orange ‘dancing' mushroom steeped in warm water, inside the Dutch oven brewing a hearty mountain stew, one could feel the abundance.
Even when there was a snowstorm deep within the mountain, where there was nothing but trees and rocks, in front of strangers, abundance was there. In a literal sense, the mountain people forage and relish what nature provides. Figuratively, the enduring spirit and appreciation are clearly in abundance.
Yuriko and Takeshi have an abundance of struggles and hardships, yet they maintain an abundance of optimism and kindness. They’re rightfully proud of the life that they have built for themselves and, more than anything, are abundant in their grace.
Interestingly, this abundance only leads to more abundance in other aspects. Many times, I have been invited spontaneously to a stranger’s house (I had no say in the matter) where the host spared no cost in setting up lavish trays of Sashimi and other foods. It’s also a common occurrence to receive a small gift from local grandmas (Obaa-sans) and grandpas (Ojii-sans) on your everyday walk.
You can try to resist it, but the abundance will eventually seep its way into you. And what happens is that you, too, will transform to fit this abundance in your life. You start being abundant about your public mindfulness, you pay extra attention to the things you make, you offer help to strangers, etc.
If it takes a cottage and an overly bitter Jam to learn the value of abundance. Then I’m more than happy to have it this way. I urge you to welcome abundance —in its many forms— into your life. Or at least put yourself in situations where you must.
PS: Part of our visit included walking around Mt.Hakusan in historical bamboo snow shoes, which was amazing. However, I somehow managed to break one. Takeshi did not mind it at all, but man, did I feel like I strained our bond.
The Gods are Jealous in Shintoism
The Goddess Hera in Greek mythology, Queen of the Olympians, is often jealous of whoever Zeus decides to non-consensually court, be it human, monster, or animal. Rightfully so, as she is supposed to symbolize womanhood, family, and marriage.
That is to say, I was surprised when I discovered that the Gods and deities of Japanese Shintoism get jealous as well. Specifically, they get jealous of everyday working people like you and me.
Near the base of Mt.Hakusan (once again, I know…) exists a shrine that’s known as Shirayama Hime Jinja, which roughly translates to “white mountain princess temple.” Existing for more than two thousand years, this temple’s entrance feels like the beginning of a Ghibli Studio movie. It’s a wonderful sight.
This place worships and appreciates the goddess of Mt.Hakusan, one of three holy mountains of Japan, including Mt.Fuji. Whose beauty is so divine in winter that the people of Ishikawa believed that it could only belong to a goddess. Nowadays, people visit the temple for its spiritual healing properties, wish for good luck, and express gratitude to the goddess Mt.Hakusan for the blessings she provides.
However, if you were to ask any locals about the temple, they would be quick to warn you about the place. Do not bring your girlfriend there, said Ono-san, an elderly woman whom I regularly share cooking classes with. After pressing her a bit further, she revealed to me that Hakusan Princess gets very jealous. She stopped tossing the fruit salad consisting of fermented rice milk, bananas, and berries. She will break you up. I thanked her for the advice before continuing to make spring rolls. However, curiosity got the best of me, and I just had to know.
Do married couples suffer the same fate? Marriage is ok.
What if I come with a female friend instead? So long as it’s platonic.
What if I bring two partners instead? Ono-san laughed and lightly smacked me on the shoulder, Don’t be a player.
When I hear stories of religions and mythologies, I often imagine that they occur to special beings. The prophets, Odysseus, and Buddha are all tales that occur to otherly higher people. Not your average person like you and me. It fascinates me how a god desires that of a human. It’s pure thought practice and poetry at its best.
In Hannah Kirshner’s “Water, Wood, and Wild Things”, the author tells many stories of the crafts and experiences she had during her decade in Kaga, Ishikawa. Among her stories of duck net hunting and wood bowl engravings, she was invited to help brew Sake in Yamanaka’s sole historical brewery.
However, just to reach this point, it took her a lot of effort, connections, and attempts. Why? Historically, no woman has ever brewed sake in Yamanaka. And what’s the reason for that? Due to the goddess Matsuo’s jealousy of the women.
Even for Sake, the goddess grows jealous of any woman who approaches this space. If Matsuo is displeased, she will not give her blessings to the year’s brew. Thus ruining an entire year’s effort.
Suffice it to say, one must be very careful when dealing with the various deities and gods in Shintoism. While it seems like an awfully convenient excuse for restricting women in various fields (Japan has a massive sexism and gender equality problem). These days, people treat these rules as traditions rather than a way of life.
Honestly, I find it pretty symbolic how even gods succumb to the woe that is jealousy. There is no one stronger than the inherent desire. It is a driving force for good and bad. Ultimately, I leave you with a quote from The Simpsons by Homer.
I'm not jealous, I'm envious. Jealousy is when you worry someone will take what you have. Envy is wanting what someone else has. What I feel is envy.
You Don’t Want to Be in Tokyo or Osaka
The next station is Shibuya, is a sentence I kept waiting for as I was on the subway.
Before I came to Japan, I think I watched every TikTok and every student vlog about living in Japan, specifically Tokyo. After two months of landing in Japan and a disappointing trip to Osaka (I might be Osaka’s #1 hater), me and a friend spontaneously rented a car and headed on a 10-hour caffeine-fueled trip to the capital. To say I was excited is an understatement.
We dealt with our lodging situation (It was a capsule hotel that’s simultaneously an onsen and an office) and hunted a parking spot, then hit the road. What do you want to do now? said Bazookie, the road had taken a toll on him, running on his 4th energy drink of the day.
I’ve told this story many times to friends, but if it wasn’t for Atlus’ Persona 5 Royal, my life would have taken a different direction. In fact, you wouldn’t be reading this in the first place. It is the reason why I’m in Japan. The game takes place in a fictional town called Yongenjaya, which is a replica of Tokyo’s Sangenjaya. As a way to pay homage to a game that has impacted me so strongly, I needed to visit this area.
Despite how negative this short essay is, visiting Sangenjaya was a dream come true. It was as wonderful as I expected it to be, and a deep part of me was satisfied. It was like turning over the final page of a multi-series novel. Also, the curry and coffee (IYKYK) were spectacular.
What came after Sangenjaya? Neither of us knew. Bazookie was invited to an underground car meetup, but that was way later at night. We had a few hours to kill. So we just headed to where we knew best, Shibuya. I cannot lie, the first 24 hours in Tokyo were wonderful. It felt surreal. I’ve certainly never seen such a densely populated place in one place than Shibuya Square. Everything felt new, 22nd-century-like, a testament to how far I’ve come. I suppose this wonder extends much longer for someone visiting Japan for the first time.
My skin was surprisingly smooth. I had slept like a log. The capsule hotel’s brown sleep robes were surprisingly comfortable. Who would’ve known that after a long day of walking, a busy night out, and a warm bathhouse soak, the sleep would be euphoric. I made my bed and checked on Bazookie. We awoke around the same time. We silently packed our bags and then discussed the day’s itinerary. Our phones idled on Google Maps, and we exchanged looks.
None of us knew what to do next.
By then, we had spent a few months living in Japan. We’ve seen the temples, eaten Udon and Sushi, traveled to other cities, and interacted with the locals. There was nothing new Tokyo could offer that other places did not. Asakusa? Just an overcrowded shrine. Harajuku? Interesting, sure, but fashion is everywhere. Akihabara? No.
So… we walked. We walked with no destination in mind, stopping wherever our curiosity piqued. The company and the laughs were the most fun thing about the trip. The city did not contribute to those pleasant memories.
The monotonous concrete buildings, busy subways, endless shopping malls, and lack of third places made Tokyo (Osaka too) the most boring places I have ever visited. Unless you plan to shop until you drop and squeeze around people, Tokyo offers nothing of value to you. The major cities are pure business and capitalism in their very essence.
While it may seem like a different world if it’s your first time in Japan, the charm quickly wears off. You do not want to be in Tokyo or Osaka, or any big city, for more than a week straight. Instead, take the off-beaten path. Ride the village-leading train that runs once every 4 hours. Befriend an Obaa-san or Ojii-san. Explore nature without Google Maps.
My favorite moments ever in Japan come from visiting these small towns. I’ve been invited inside centuries-old shrines, shared meals with farmers, and spoken broken Japanese to share my culture with them. Sometimes my Japanese friends tell me that I did stuff that even they have not done yet. If you were to stay in Tokyo or Osaka, your chances of making unique experiences are slim to none. Besides, the nature is unparalleled too.
I can preach this choir of rural vs urban experience in order to submerge in culture endlessly, but Anthony Bourdain said it best.
“Do we really want to travel in hermetically sealed popemobiles through the rural provinces of France, Mexico and the Far East, eating only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria's mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want. I want it all. I want to try everything once.”
Footnotes 😋
Consider this post a small collection of essays about thoughts and experiences I’ve been meaning to discuss for quite some time now. I lack the time, skill, and creative capabilities to turn them into full-fledged essays.
If the feedback is good, I might write a part two or something similar. I have a few more things I want to write about. Obviously, I couldn’t due to the limitation in space and reader attention.
I might turn this into a series of Japan rural life? Not sure, think Tending Garden by Kana
I’ve been thinking of starting a small financial support plan here on Substack. Think under 4 Euros. If you opt in, you will get postcards sent to you monthly or yearly? Not really sure how it would work. If you read this far, shoot me a message on Instagram @abdonejam. I’ll be glad to share more details about this!